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A new rear addition with a vaulted beamed ceiling and tall windows

IKO Home Additions & ADU Nationwide

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A wide opening with a new beam where the kitchen wall was removed
A garage converted into a guest room and home office
A small remodeled galley kitchen with cabinets to the ceiling
A low-threshold walk-in shower with a bench and grab bar
A finished basement family room with a media wall and wet bar
A walk-in pantry with wood shelving
A powder room with botanical wallpaper and a stone sink
A remodeled laundry and mudroom with a bench, cubbies and painted cabinets
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IKO Home Additions & ADU: The Fort Worth Owner’s Guide

IKO home additions and ADU construction in Fort Worth typically runs $45,000 to $130,000 installed, depending on square footage, foundation type, and whether you’re adding a bedroom suite or a full accessory dwelling unit with a kitchen and bath. Most homeowners call us when a previous IKO-backed renovation has a structural or envelope failure – a cracked drywall seam where the addition meets the original slab, a roofline that’s pulling away, or subfloor deflection in a second-story bump-out. The part most people need isn’t a widget off a shelf; it’s the load path, flashing detail, or tie-in connection that the original IKO install never got right.

Call (682) 841-6652

We’re Sawyer Remodel Fort Worth, an independent general contractor – not affiliated with IKO, but deeply familiar with how their product lines behave once Texas clay soil and a Fort Worth summer get ahold of them. We stock the common fasteners, flashing, and framing connectors on our trucks, and we order IKO-compatible materials same-day from local supply yards when the job calls for it.

Which IKO Models This Applies To

A single-story rear room addition with tall windows and a new patio

IKO’s home addition and ADU product lines break into two broad groups: their prefabricated panel systems (wall, floor, and roof panels that arrive pre-cut) and their stick-built framing packages with IKO-branded sheathing and weather barrier. In Fort Worth, we see mostly the panel systems on detached ADUs and garage conversions, while the stick-built packages show up on bump-outs and second-story additions.

The compatibility gotcha that catches people: IKO panel systems are engineered for specific fastener schedules and sealant types. If a previous contractor used standard drywall screws or a generic silicone on the panel seams, the shear rating drops and you’ll see movement cracks within two to four years. Check the stamp on the panel edge – it lists the panel series, the fastener spec, and the required sealant. The aftermarket equivalents we use (Simpson Strong-Tie connectors, Grace Vycor flashing, ZIP System sheathing where panel replacement is needed) meet or exceed IKO’s specs, but they have to be matched to the panel series, not just the general size. A Series 300 panel and a Series 500 panel look identical from ten feet away and take different fasteners.

Before we quote anything, we pull one panel or open one wall section to read the stamp. It takes ten minutes. It prevents a $45,000 addition from cracking at year three.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your IKO Home Additions & ADU Is Failing

  • Drywall cracks spreading from door or window corners of the addition. The addition is moving independently of the main house. In Fort Worth’s clay soil, this usually means the foundation tie-in was under-engineered or the soil wasn’t compacted to spec before the slab went in.
  • A visible gap where the addition roof meets the original roof. Thermal expansion and wind uplift are pulling the flashings loose. Once water gets under the metal, the sheathing rots from the inside and you won’t see it until the ceiling stains.
  • Floor squeaks or soft spots at the transition between old and new. The joist overlap at the tie-in didn’t get the blocking or the hangers the drawing called for. Deflection builds, then the subfloor starts moving underfoot.
  • Exterior caulk joints cracking within months of being re-sealed. If the substrate is swelling from trapped moisture, no sealant will hold. That means the IKO weather barrier flap was taped wrong, or the drainage plane got skipped entirely.
  • Higher cooling bills in the addition than in the rest of the house. Air sealing at panel seams failed. You’re air-conditioning the attic and the wall cavities, not the room.

None of these fix themselves. All of them get more expensive the longer they sit.

Before & after

See the difference

Before - Recent ProjectBeforeAfter - Recent ProjectAfter
Recent Project
Before - Full RestorationBeforeAfter - Full RestorationAfter
Full Restoration
Before - Complete UpgradeBeforeAfter - Complete UpgradeAfter
Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

A second-story addition that matches the existing roofline

Here’s the Fort Worth reality, based on what we bid and build:

  • Structural tie-in repair (foundation-to-addition): $8,000 – $25,000, depending on whether we’re sistering joists, adding shear wall, or doing a pier adjustment.
  • Full roof-flashing and envelope rework on an existing addition: $4,500 – $15,000
  • Panel or sheathing replacement on a failed wall section: $3,500 – $12,000 per wall, including the re-flash and re-seal.
  • Complete home addition (new build): $45,000 – $130,000, based on square footage, foundation type, and finish level.
  • Detached ADU: $90,000 – $220,000 for a permitted unit with kitchen, bath, and separate meter.
  • Garage conversion to living space: $30,000 – $80,000, depending on whether the slab passes inspection and the existing framing is salvageable.

Every quote we write in Fort Worth includes the parts, the labor, the permit, and the written warranty. The number on your quote is the number on your invoice – there is no “we found X when we opened the wall” change order because we do the invasive inspection before we price, not after. That’s The Relay Standard, and it’s been how we run jobs since 2005.

DIY or Call Us?

If you want to investigate before spending money, here’s what’s safe for a homeowner to check: go into the attic above the addition and look for daylight at the roof-wall intersection. Examine the caulk joints from a ladder (never from the roof itself). Note where cracks are in the drywall and mark the ends with a pencil line and today’s date – if the crack passes the line in a few weeks, the movement is active, not settling.

What you shouldn’t do is open the wall, pull the flashings, sister joists, or re-engineer a panel connection. The tie-in between an addition and the main structure carries the load of the whole addition. Get the fastener schedule wrong and you’re not saving money – you’re financing a structural failure. Framing, shear, and waterproofing details are load-bearing work. If it fails, someone gets hurt.

Call (682) 841-6652 and we’ll come look at it, pull the panel stamp, and give you a written price before anything gets touched. The estimate is free and the inspection is thorough – Luca does his own walkthroughs because he’s seen too many remodels go sideways when the owner stops showing up.

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